I’ve had my dog for about 11 years. We’ve been best friends ever since I can remember, but for the last year she’s been acting very strange. She used to love when I pet her and snuggled up to her, but now she growls and snaps at me. I use to play a little rough with her all the time and she used to nibble at me lightly like puppies do, but as of recent she will bite me very hard and that scares me.

She also doesn’t listen to me when I call to her, she acts as if she can’t even hear me. I feel as though she respects everyone except me, and that really hurts me because I feel like I’ve been the closest to her because she’s my dog. What can I do? I just want to be close to my precious dog again. -Lulu

Dear Lulu,

How do I handle the situation when I am walking my boxer on her leash and we are confronted by an off leash dog or two? It happens a lot in my neighborhood and my former street dog (she was rescued from a neglectful life of living on the streets of East Dallas) goes crazy and barks and lunges at the dogs. I have worked with her so she no longer lunges at dogs behind fences but she continues to go crazy at the off leash roamers.

Ellen G.

Dear Ellen,

Thank you for writing in! We appreciate questions such as these, since there are many in your walking shoes experiencing the same situation. The following are a few quick tips you can use to help with enjoying your leash-walks.

Interrupt and redirect! It sounds as if you’re already initiating this dog training maneuver when encountering dogs behind fences – now you can take it a step further. An easy and fun game you can play is “Find it! All you have to do is say “find it” when she alerts to another dog, then toss a small treat on the ground in the direction you want your dog do walk. The intention of the game is to redirect her attention elsewhere while making it fun and rewarding – more than barking and lunging at the other dogs. (Using a treat she’d do backflips over would make an even bigger impact!) With proper timing and consistency she should begin to create an association of “other dogs” = “fun”! You’ll know she’s understanding the game when she sees another dog and then looks at you almost as if asking “Are we going to play now?”

If your inquisitive canine is more of an obedience expert, you can play the same game, but in leu of playing “find it”, you can run through her gamut of “tricks”. The principle is the same in that every time another dog appears life gets better for her!

Keep it loosey-goosey! Leashes can be restrictive when dogs are trying to communicate with others – dogs and people. However, they’re important when in areas he or she can run off and get hurt or harm something else. Plus, in many areas it’s the law. To allow your dog freedom of speech in her innate language with the other pooch’s, avoid tightening up on the leash. IF (and this is a big IF) it’s safe for her, for the other dog, okay with the other owner (if they’re around), the general public, an

Allow your dog to speak! Our domestic dogs have a language all their own. Allowing your dog the opportunity to speak her mind will help her convey her message to the other dog, and vice-versa. She might be using both her vocal and body language skills. Similar to when any two people are talking, especially in a language we’re not fluent in, it’s best to avoid interrupting. d you’re comfortable with it, drop the leash. Again, this allows her more control over her behavior – which we all want, right?

Learn to “speak dog”! In addition to allowing the dogs to communicate, you’ll want to take a foreign language course in “dog-talk”. This is helpful for watching your own pooch, as well as others you encounter – especially those who are unfamiliar. A dog whose body and face is relaxed and loose, tail wiggly-waggy in movement, mouth open with tongue possibly hanging out while walking towards you using a bouncy gait is more likely to be friendly. The complete opposite – body stiff, mouth closed with tense face, stiff gate, head downward but gazing towards you/your dog – is a dog you’d want to question – it doesn’t mean he or she would want to start a fight, but this type of language might be conveying more of a reserved greeting. When in doubt you can use the little trick of taking a handful of treats and tossing them at the other dog while you head off in another direction.

Paws and reflect: Make the experience fun and rewarding, versus stressful, and be prepared for what your plan of action is for those times you see another dog while on walks. Also, remember to allow your dog to speak her mind when other dogs are around.With time, practice and consistency, you can make the experience a walk in the park – or wherever your dogs leash takes you.

Heading to an off-leash dog location with your inquisitive canine? Remember to bring along a few useful behaviors to make your outing an ideal situation. The following are a few I would bring along to help knock any challenge outta the park!

• Eye-contact: this helps to remind your dog of the fabulous relationship you share and that you’re there together. And, when they’re looking at you they’re not doing other things that you might find annoying.

• Walking nicely next to you (or in close enough proximity to where you feel comfortable) while they’re off-leash. Some dogs learn to discriminate that being on leash means walking next to you, and being free as a bird means they’re free as a bird.

You can simply follow the same steps for teaching on-leash healing, with the added steps of allowing the leash to drag behind while practicing in low distraction areas. Once you move outside and

to the park you’ll want to still have your dog drag the leash while at the same time using higher value motivators more frequently to help keep them focused on you. You can then switch to a long-line (as long as it’s safe for everyone) and slowly fade out the leash altogether once your dog has learned this new skill.

• Coming when called. The sound of your voice calling should be music to your dogs ears. Once again this is a behavior you’ll want to practice first in a low distraction area, then gradually moving to those places he or she would find more interesting. And, as above with the leash walking, you’ll want to use rewards your dog would do backflips over. You can read additional tips on teaching dogs to come when called on this inquisitive canine blog post.

• Leaving things alone when asked. A cue such as “leave it!” can be used during those times that might be more urgent – such as right before your dog decides to take a swim in a lake or go after a wildlife creature. Of course it’s best to interrupt their behavior beforehand using your “coming when called” but if you’re  caught off-guard, this one can get their attention.

If your dog already has a baseline of these skills continuing to practice now and again helps to maintain proficiency. If you’re starting from square one we suggest you start by dividing overall behaviors into smaller, single behaviors. Asking too much at one time can send any animal over the edge and into a pool of frustration (humans too), so make sure you’re consistent with the less-is-more training plan.

Nowadays the list of inquisitive canine specific sports and activities is getting longer and longer. As both a dog trainer and dog mom I think that’s fabulous! It’s wonderful to have so many options that both dogs and humans can choose from. Seems there’s something that fits preferences, lifestyle and fitness level – for everyone. Keep in mind though that dogs usually have their preferences as to which sport they’d choose. Are they a sniffer? A fetcher? A swimmer? A catcher? Puller or pusher? The following list of a few of the more popular sports for inquisitive canines – maybe you’ll find one or two of interest to you and your own dog:

• K9 Nose-work - for inquisitive canines who keep their nose to the grindstone, are scent driven and enjoy the “hunt”. I think it’s safe to say, this is Poncho’s number one sport!

• Dog agility is a sport in which a handler directs their dog through an obstacle course in a race for both time and accuracy. Consists of jumps, tunnels, climbing frames, walking/balance beams and targeting. Can be adapted for dogs of all skill levels, ages and sizes.

• (Musical) Canine Freestyle is a contemporary dog sport that is a combination of obedience, tricks and dancing! It allows for creative interaction between dogs and their owners while building the bond in a fun artistic way. (This would be my number one activity because I enjoy dancing and I know Poncho would be a willing partner!)

• Flyball is a sport where teams of four dogs race against each other from a start/finish line over hurdles to a box that releases a tennis ball to be caught after the dog presses the spring-loaded pad, then back to their handlers while carrying the ball. Good for dogs who are scent and prey driven.

• Rally Obedience (Rally-O) Dog and handler teams navigate a course with numbered signs indicating different exercises to perform such as Sit-Down-Sit, Straight Figure 8, Send Over Jump, Recall Over Jump.

• Treibball is a dog sport that is similar to sheep herding, but the dog must herd and drive large exercise balls into a soccer goal. Great for inquisitive canines who enjoy herding, playing games, and spending time learning with their pet partner.

• K-9 weight pull is a competitive sport available to any breed of inquisitive canine who enjoys pulling! Similar to sledding, dogs pull carts, sleds and/or wagons.

• Dock jumping/dock diving is a sport for inquisitive canines in which dogs compete in jumping for distance or height from a dock into a body of water. Great for water loving pooches!

Having so many choices it should be easy to find something that sounds appealing. Whether you choose to continue to practice  the basics, or engage in an alternate activity,  getting involved with your dog can help provide physical and mental enrichment (for you both), as well as strengthen your bond. Plus it’s just fun! Happy learning!

Our new Shih Tzu puppy hides from us, only coming out when no one is around. She also lowers her head when we pet her. I know it takes time, but I’ve heard some dogs will start interacting with their new environment after 1-3 days, and tomorrow will be her third day here. I just want her to be

a happy puppy. What should I do and how should I do it?

Renee T.

Dear Renee,

Poncho here! My certified dog trainer mom thought it best if I take this one. First off, allow me to say “atta girl!” for being inquisitive, aware of your situation and taking the time to ask questions about your new puppy. I’d also like to commend you for being such a keen observer of her body language and your ability to listen to what she’s “saying.”

Once a young pup myself, I can speak firsthand as to how learning to trust new people, places and situations takes time and practice. I’m happy to pass along a few simple dog training tips you can use to help your wallflower fido become the more confident canine you’d like her to be.

Treats, Love and Understanding

Let’s start with a few knowledge nuggets regarding the topic of fear. I’m talking about fear as it relates to her feelings, her emotional state and her ability to make her own decisions.

The primary stage of your dog’s life when she’s most open to new people and situations is 0-3 months — a very narrow window in which sociability wins out over being afraid. If your pup wasn’t introduced to a variety of people and situations during this time, then chances are it’ll be tougher for her to adapt, since the fear response starts to win the race as she ages. However, not all hope is lost. You can certainly teach her anything she is physically and mentally capable of doing, including trusting and enjoying her new life with you and all that’s in it!

Here are a few steps you can take:

• Keep It Simple. During this crucial teaching time, you’ll want to keep things simple and fun. All you have to do is pair something your bashful bow-wow might be uncertain about with something she already loves! For instance, since we animals must eat, you and others can provide extra-yummy goodies for her, such as pieces of grilled chicken or steak (I love when my mom does that!), allowing her to approach you. If she’s still hesitant, try tossing pieces toward her, building the trail of trust till she is confident enough to approach.

• Adjust Expectations, Little by Little. Believe me, you’ll want to take baby-steps when working with her. As long as she continues to advance toward you, accepting your kindness and that of strangers, you can keep forging ahead at a slow-and-steady pace. If and when she decides to back off, respect her wishes and allow her to make that choice.

• The Triple-P of Giving Treats. Once she begins to show signs of confidence, coming toward you and being close to you, begin hand-feeding her. Others in your home can do this as well. As she gets more comfortable, you can begin the Triple-P Treat Training Plan: Pet, praise, then present the treat. Petting should begin with light touches under her chin, working your way around as she gets more comfortable. And — this is really important — all petting should be followed with a yummy nibble of treat goodness. I recommend making the top of her head the last location, since hands reaching over will cause her to pull back.

As for additional situations and locations, repeat the same steps in places you want her to enjoy hanging out. Over time, she should learn to believe that her new world is a fantastic place and her confidence should build, making it easier for her to accept and believe that novelty is the spice of life!

Paws and Reflect

Fearfulness is a normal reaction across many different species. Your pup is responding in a way that is innate — avoiding in order to survive. It can be difficult to not take it personally, but keep in mind that developing a relationship with strangers, especially those of a different species, is more about building trust and not about liking. With a caring dog-mom like you being patient, allowing her to set the pace, giving her control over her environment and being able to make her own decisions, your bashful bow-wow will begin to enjoy her life with you in time and blossom into that self-assured pup you want!

Dear Inquisitive Canine is written by Joan Mayer and her trusty sidekick, Poncho the dog. Joan is a certified professional dog trainer and dog behavior coach. Poncho is a 10-pound mutt who knows a lot about canine and human behavior. Their column is known for its simple, commonsense approach to dog training and behavior, as well as its entertaining insight into implementing proven techniques that reward both owner and dog.

Joan is also the founder of the Inquisitive Canine and developer of the Out of the Box Dog Training Game, where her love-of-dog training approach highlights the importance of understanding canine behavior. If you or your dog have questions about behavior, training or life with each other, please email them directly.

“Woofs & Waves, Pawsitive Dog Parenting at the Beach” 

Sponsored by Friends of the Douglas Family Preserve and free to the public, this unique dog training workshop, focused on beach & park outings, will help you understand what motivates your canine companion and how to positively reinforce the behaviors you want while limiting and preventing inappropriate habits. Refreshments & prize drawings are part of the fun; please RSVP by August 10th.

Taught by certified dog trainer Joan Mayer, this course goes beyond basic “obedience” techniques by teaching valuable canine “parenting” skills—so that you can succeed at raising a healthy and happy dog. Loose leash walking, off-leash play, coming when called, shyness towards strangers, dog-dog reactivity, techniques you can use to stop your dog from getting into mischief and frequently asked questions regarding common dog behaviors will be addressed, including tips for sharing the beach with shorebirds.

By the end of this workshop, you will go home with skills you can use to train your dog no matter what your individual goals may be. The intensive, indoor session consists of lecture, discussion and interactive worksheets. *Note: this specialty dog behavior workshop is for humans only; we’d love to meet your inquisitive canine but please leave dog buddies at home. For more information you may contact Joan directly.

• Date: SUNDAY, AUGUST 12, 2012 by reservation only, space is limited 
• Time: 3:00-5:00 PM
• RSVP: by AUGUST 10th, please email Susan at DFPRestoration@yahoo.com 
• Location: WATERSHED RESOURCE CENTER, Arroyo Burro Beach Park, 2981 Cliff Drive, Santa Barbara.
• Fee: FREE

As an inquisitive canine who understands playing it safe around bodies of water, I thought it’d be a good time to send out a few reminders for other pooches and their parents about water safety:

• If your dog is intending to go for a swim, make sure he or she knows how. Not all dogs can, especially the brachycephalic (short-snout) breeds.

• If your dog is used to swimming in one location or type of water, it’s still a good idea to introduce them to new places as if you were teaching them for the first time.

• Be aware of water conditions, including chlorine levels, temperature, if there’s a current, or other factor dogs might not be the best judge of. If possible, take a dip first to test the waters. (No pun intended).

• Rinse your dog off afterwards, no matter the water condition. Dogs tend to tolerate a lot, so best to take the time to rinse – including wiping down ears and other areas skin might be more sensitive. It’s also a good time to check for ticks!

• If your dog knows how to swim, then you the owner should know how to swim too. If something should happen, you will need to help while wanting to avoid two bad situations.

• Teach your dog where and how to get in and OUT of the water. Make sure they have easy access to an escape route, especially when exiting a pool or coming onto a boat.

• For dogs learning how to swim, consider using a life-vest to help them stay afloat and get comfortable in the water. Keep in mind it’s always important to gauge you dog’s comfort level and to use caution by not pushing them beyond their threshold. Gone are the old days of being thrown into the deep end to learn to swim.

No matter where the summer takes you, we wish you continued fun-in-the-sun, and paw-raising times together. Hmmm, I know there’s Canine Freestyle, I wonder if there’s Canine Synchronized Swimming? That might be fun!

Recently, I witnessed a conversation between a father and his young son – about 4 years old I’d guess – that could have been written for a behavior modification course. It was textbook! And, I have to say,  it took much impulse control on my part to refrain from offering up training tips that might have helped him reach his goals. This is how it went.

• Father to son: “Hey, if you want to play, you can’t go past the yellow poles.” (Child had a toy car he was playing with.). Son immediately goes past the poles. “Hey, I said, you can’t go past the yellow poles if you want to play.” Again, son goes past the poles. All this time not making eye-contact with his dad.

• Father continues. “I told you, do not go past the poles! Cars are going past and you might get hit.” Sons ventures out, once again. This time the child heard, “Hey, you’re going to get hit if you stay out there – get behind the poles.”

Finally, after fourth round, the child sat down next to his dad. Father said: Nothing. (Was busy playing with his cell phone.)

To me, and probably many other certified dog trainers, animal trainers and parents of human children, we’re all thinking the same thing. If this were a dog training client of mine, these are a few things I would have suggested:

• Tell your animal what you want! As opposed to what you don’t want. Then he or she would know what the better choice is.
• When your dog does what you want – recognize it! Saying “thank you,” or “good boy!” And do so after they do what you asked.
• Consider the environment – hang out in areas where there’s enough room for an activity, with minimal risk of getting hurt or causing harm to someone else.

Setting your dog up for success – this goes for any person/animal – is key in getting behaviors that you want. With a little forethought and taking the “this is what I want you to do” approach, it  can be simple enough to do.